Beer tasting in Hahndorf, and the food that goes with it

Hahndorf's drinking history is as old as the village. The State Heritage Branch records that the original German Arms, founded in 1839, was the first licensed hotel in Hahndorf; the business moved into its present building at 69 Main Street in the early 1860s.¹ Further down the street stands the Hahndorf Inn, number 35, which opened its doors in 1863 under the name Union Hotel.¹⁰ Between them, these two pubs are where most visitors start a beer tasting in Hahndorf.

The German Arms pours a list of award-winning local and German beers.¹¹ In warm months you can drink on its balcony above the main street, and in winter there are open fires inside.¹² Its listed hours run from 09:00 to 23:59 every day, so it covers a late breakfast as easily as a nightcap.¹³ The building has been a hotel through every chapter of the village, including the war years when it was renamed.¹⁴

The state tourism body suggests a traditional German feast at the Hahndorf Inn, which suits a group sharing big plates of pork, sausage and sauerkraut with a stein each.¹⁵ The Inn also runs make-your-own apple strudel sessions.¹⁶ The Haus, a few doors along, serves German classics such as bratwurst and schnitzel.¹⁷ In October, Oktoberfest takes over these old pubs and The Haus for a month of celebrations.¹⁸

German baking has deep roots here. The heritage trail notes a bakery at 72 Main Street that worked for about 100 years; Franz Heinrich Sonnemann opened it in the early 1860s and baked traditional German cakes as well as bread.³⁴ Adelaide Hills Tourism still lists traditional and artisan bakeries in Hahndorf alongside Lobethal, Stirling, Mount Barker and Nairne.¹⁹ A slice of streusel cake and a coffee is the right start to any food day.

For a sit-down meal, think of the village as a German-flavoured street with plenty of other choices. The pubs serve schnitzel and wurst, while cafes and restaurants along the street cover other cuisines and simple lunches too. Book ahead at popular restaurants at weekends and during events, as the village's FAQ advises.³⁵ Lunch in Hahndorf on a sunny Saturday without a booking can mean a wait.

A guided walk can do the eating for you. The Kaffee and Kuchen walk starts with cake and coffee at The Haus from 10.00am, then sets off at 11.00am from outside the Hahndorf Inn.³⁶ The After Dark walk opens with a 6:00 pm dinner at The Haus.³⁷ Both mix food with the village's history, which suits visitors curious about the stories behind the food as well as its taste, and both end close to the pubs.

South Australian liquor law does not allow alcohol to be supplied to anyone under 18, so bring identification if you look young.⁸ For drivers the line is firm: once your blood alcohol reaches 0.05 per cent, you may not drive at all, so a designated driver stays on water or juice all day.⁹ On a day of tastings that line is easy to cross, so decide before the first glass who is driving, or leave the car keys behind. The hills roads are narrow and winding, and after dark they demand a clear head and full attention.

There are good ways not to drive. The village's guide notes that taxis come up from the city and that evening trips should be booked ahead.³⁸ A tour that includes the drive solves the problem completely. One Viator day spends 45 minutes at lunch at The Haus and 120 minutes free in Hahndorf after stops at Beerenberg and Melba's, over 6 hours. Prices start from $112, and the booking can be dropped without cost until 24 hours before departure.

Other days add more drinking stops. One small-group GetYourGuide day limited to 6 includes Grunthal Brew for 50 minutes, a Golding Wines tasting and lunch in Hahndorf. The Highlights day gives 2 hours in Hahndorf and adds tastings in McLaren Vale. Whichever you choose, eat well, drink water between tastings and let the hills set the pace. A long lunch with a view is the point of the day, not the number of glasses.